Discover Out Which Wood Router is Best For You Before You Buy

how to find the best wood router

I'm kind of used to the two-wrench variety. I generally take the router motor completely out of its base, lay it on its side on the table, placing 1 wrench on the flat part of the shaft and the other wrench on the collet nut. If I am loosening the collet nut, I will initial lower the shaft wrench to the table top and then push down towards the bench with the wrench that's on the collet nut. If I am tightening the collet nut, I will place the collet nut wrench down to the table leading and then push down against that with the shaft wrench on the flat component of the shaft.

If you've used routers at all, you must have noticed that when you are loosening a collet nut, you will really feel resistance at the begin of the turn of the wrench and then it will turn freely for a while prior to resisting the wrench 1 much more time. The initial resistance comes from loosening the nut itself. The nut then unscrews a bit down the thread and then it begins to push against the collet, releasing it from the shaft of the router bit. When you are tightening a bit into a wood router, you will feel resistance only as soon as as you squeeze the collet around the shaft of the bit whilst turning the nut as far as it will go.

Some people like to change router bits with the wood router upside down on the table with the two wrenches sticking out to the side. In this case, the technique is to arrange the wrenches so that you can squeeze their handles with each other with one hand to loosen, or tighten, the collet nut. For these people, some manufacturers make routers with flat tops. If find this way to be a bit clumsier than laying the wood router down on the bench: There is much less leverage in case of a stuck bit.

Seventh, router bits come in three shank sizes, 1-quarter inch, three-eighths inch and one-half inch. The half-inch shank bits are only slightly much more expensive than the quarter-inch ones and yet, they give you a distinct benefit. With a larger diameter shank and a larger diameter collet, there is a lot much less chance of slippage below heavy loads. Consider buying only half-inch shank bits, particularly if you are spinning big cutters.

Eighth, some routers provide "above router table" height adjustment capability. This is generally achieved by sticking a hex T-wrench into a hole supplied. It's hard to adjust the height of a wood router accurately from underneath a router table whilst on your knees, fighting gravity. An even more sophisticated solution is to buy a router lift for your router table.

Ninth, there are three kinds of wood router bases: standard, spiral and plunge. In a standard fixed base, the router motor just slides straight up and down in the base and is clamped into position. The spiral-kind base has an adjustment ring that turns in a spiral groove reduce into the outside of the router motor casing, thus raising or lowering the router motor relative to the base.

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